Western Red Cedar Split Rail Fencing

One of the oldest types of fencing, split railing fencing made from high quality Western Red Cedar is a popular and economical choice for defining property lines and other outdoor spaces, as well as adding rustic beauty to the landscape.  Due to Western Red Cedar’s natural properties that resist rot and decay, as well as insect attack, Western Red Cedar split rail fences will last for many years with no maintenance.

Our Western Red Cedar split rail posts and rails are all individually split, peeled and formed to expose the cedar’s natural color and grain.  Our split rail posts are pre-drilled for use as an end, corner or line with either two or three holes to accommodate the rails.  Two rail posts will yield a fence with a finished height of approximately three feet, while the three rail post system provides a finished fence height of approximately four feet.

Split rail fencing end posts are drilled halfway through and are used as starting and stopping points in the fence.  Line posts are drilled all the way through to support rails on either side, while corner posts are drilled halfway trough on adjoining sides to create right angles.

Western Red Cedar Split Rail Fence

Cedar split rails can be used in conjunction with either the two rail or three rail system and have a tenon on each end to slide into the split rail post.

Western Red Cedar Split Rail Fence tenon end

If needed, in addition to “standard” sized rails, we offer Jumbo rails that are more heavy duty and average 12”+ in circumference.  Jumbo cedar split rails are available in 10’ lengths.  The standard cedar split rails are generally about 10” in circumference and are available in 8’ or 10′ lengths.

Two hole split rail western red cedar fence

Out of all fencing types, Western Red Cedar split rail fencing is one of the easiest to install, making it a good project for homeowners.  Once the posts have been set, the ends of the rails slip easily in place.

How to install Western Red Cedar Split Rail Fencing

  1. Practice due diligence to ensure where you are planning to place your Western Red Cedar split rail fence is on your property and does not interfere with boundaries, under ground utilities or your neighbor’s property

 

  1. Contact your local building department to discuss your local building codes and permitting requirements for your proposed new fence

 

  1. Since the rails are pre-cut, layout the fence with those lengths in mind. However, since it is likely to not layout perfectly, consider either shortening the overall length of your fence or shortening the fence rails to create shorter sections at each end by cutting the rails and trimming the ends to fit into the pre-drilled holes on the post.

 

  1. Stake out your fence line and determine where each post will be placed by using the same measurement as your rails. The center of the post will be placed either 8’ or 10’ apart based on the length of rail you have chosen.

 

  1. Layout the posts and rails along your line to ensure a correct fit before you begin digging holes. Adjust as necessary.  This can save time later on.  And a lot of digging.

 

  1. We suggest using a post hole digger to ensure that you are able to secure each Western Red Cedar split rail post into the ground securely. When digging your holes, plan for a clearance of at least six inches from the ground to the lowest rail.  Adding a layer of gravel to the bottom of each hole can help with drainage, especially in wet climates.

 

  1. Place your end and/or corner posts first, ensuring they are plumb and straight, then back fill. Next connect each post with a string line.  This will help your fence stay straight as you dig holes and place your other cedar split rail posts along the line.

 

  1. Staying along your string line, dig holes for each cedar split rail post, set each post and insert the split rails into each post, while checking each post for plumb and alignment.  Then, fill each hole with soil and tamp firmly.

Western Red Cedar Split rail fencing for sale

Before your next project, be sure to visit us!

www.CedarCountryLumber.com

950 B Fountain Street, Burlington WA

360.757.6343

 

Alaskan Yellow Cedar Building Materials

Custom Milled Yellow Cedar T&G

In this photo – Custom Milled Alaskan Yellow Cedar T&G for a customer in New York

 A slow growing tree found along the Pacific Coast from Oregon through Canada, and up into Alaska, Alaskan Yellow Cedar trees can grow very tall, which makes it an ideal wood for large timbers used in timber frame construction.  It is also commonly referred to as Nootka Cypress.

Large Custom Cut Alaska Yellow Cedar Timbers

In this photo:  Custom Cut 8×8″ x 30′ long Alaskan Yellow Cedar Timber

We ship very large Alaskan Yellow Cedar Timbers anywhere in the US.

In this photo:  The 8×8″ x 30′ long Alaskan Yellow Cedar Timber is being loaded on to a flat bed truck for transport to our customer in upstate New York

Highly aromatic, and slightly harder than Western Red Cedar, Alaskan Yellow Cedar is an excellent choice for most building applications where a lighter hued wood is desired. Naturally resistant to rot and decay with good dimensional stability and work-ability, Alaskan Yellow Cedar is readily available in decking, custom and standard siding patterns, shingles, shakes and dimensional lumber.

Custom Milled Yellow Cedar T&G

In this photo – Custom Milled Alaskan Yellow Cedar T&G for a customer in New York

We are pleased to share this photo collection with you where our Alaskan Yellow Cedar dimensional boards were used to make a stunning fence in the Seattle area. This beautiful fence will provide years of service, and beauty, to this customer’s property.

These awesome photos were shared with us, along with this quote
“We are so excited about the cedar. It is BEAUTIFUL” ~ Erika

Alaskan Yellow Cedar Boards Used for Fencing

Yellow Cedar Fencing

ayc-fence

Before your next project, be sure to visit us!  We ship nationwide!

http://www.CedarCountryLumber.com

950 B Fountain Street ~ Burlington, WA

Toll Free 866.757.6343

Western Red Cedar Fence Board Grades

Day after day we receive inquiries for the price of fence boards. Unlike traditional lumber yards and box home improvement stores, when a call like that is received at our store, our staff provides a price for a Western Red Cedar fence board as well as the grade. In many cases, the person who is inquiring about the price does not have a clear understanding of what the grading means and maybe comparing pricing of products from various sources that are not equal.

Imagine calling around to different restaurants and asking for the price of “cheeseburger”.  While it is called the same thing at a fast food restaurant as well as a nice family restaurant, the“cheeseburger” at each location will be different quality and the pricing would reflect that. You would not purchase a cheeseburger based solely on price while not taking into consideration the quality, so therefore, you should not select a fence board based solely on price either.

While there is no regulation or standards for “cheeseburgers”, there are established standards for fence boards that have been developed by the National Lumber Grades Authority, as well as the West Coast Lumber Inspection Bureau. It is important to note, that “fence grade” is below Knotty or Clear grades of Western Red Cedar and should not be compared to the quality or held at the same standard as lumber in those grades.

The West Coast Lumber Inspection Bureau divides Western Red Cedar Fence Boards into three basic categories. Any grade may be rough or surfaced, Air Dried, Kiln Dried or “green”. Grade is determined by the best face.

No. 1 Fencing “Select”

  • Checks and Pinholes are not limited
  • Shakes are “Fine”
  • Skips are “hit and miss”, splits are “short”
  • Knots are sound and tight
  • Spike Knots can be approximately 1/2 face width or equivalent
  • Tolerance of 1/16″ over or under in thickness, width may vary along the piece of 1/8″, but not to exceed 20% of the pieces
1

Select Quality Western Red Cedar Fencing

 

No. 2 Fencing “Quality”

  • Checks and Pinholes are not limited
  • Shakes are “fine”
  • Skips are “hit and miss”, splits are “medium”
  • Wane can be 1/2 thickness as well as 1/3 width
  • There can be small spots or streaks of unsound wood
  • White speck not limited
  • There maybe some knots that are not firmly fixed or are unsound but may not exceed 1/3 the width of the board
  • Spike Knots can be 3/4 of the face width
  • Maximum 1″ holes with 4 per foot allowed, unless “No Hole” is specified
  • Same tolerance of thickness and width as Select Fencing
This is a great example of our No. 2 Select “No Hole” Fencing, which is the standard fence board we supply unless otherwise specified. This particular fence is made from 3/4″ net thick material that the customer made a custom, decorative top cut to.

This is a great example of our No. 2 Select “No Hole” Fencing, which is the standard fence board we supply unless otherwise specified. This particular fence is made from 3/4″ net thick material that the customer made a custom, decorative top cut to.

No. 3 Fencing “Rustic”

  • Lumber of this grade is suitable for low grade and permits all characteristics which do not interfere with the use of the piece
  • Thickness can be 3/16″ over or under invoiced thickness
  • Edge skips can not exceed 1/4″
  • Variation on width should not exceed 1/2″

We do not allow returns or exchanges on ANY No.3 fencing, as the pricing reflects the quality of the the material of the whole order

no 3 fencing

No. 3 Western Red Cedar Fence Boards

GLOSSARY as provided by The West Coast Lumber Inspection Bureau
Shake – A lengthwise separation of the wood with occurs between or through the rings of
annual growth.

  • “Light” or “Fine” Shake is not over 1/32″ wide
  • “Medium” Shake is not over 1/8″ wide
  • “Surface” Shake occurs on only one surface of the piece
  • Shake should not be confused with bark seams

Split – A separation of the wood through the piece of the opposite surface or to an adjoining surface due to the tearing apart of the wood cells.

  • “Very Short” is equal in length to 1/2 of the width of the piece
  • “Short” is equal in length to the width of the piece and does not exceed 1/6 the length
  • “Medium” is equal in length to twice the width of the piece and does not exceed 1/6 thelength
  • “Long” is longer than a medium

Skips – Occurs during milling when the board is too thin in an area to reach the planer blades, thus resulting in rough spot

Wane – Bark or lack of wood from any cause, except eased edges, on the edge or corner of a
piece of lumber

Before your next project, be sure to visit us!

www.CedarCountryLumber.com

We Ship Nationwide!

360.757.643